In the space that was formally RM, Philippe Chow, longtime chef at the legendary Mr. Chow, has opened Philippe, a new contemporary Chinese restaurant, best described as Shanghai Chic. The 240-seat two-story restaurant was designed by co-owner Morfogen. Philippe’s minimalist décor consists of a background of glossy white with accents of brown, black and red in the banquettes, chairs and bar area, shiny black lacquered floors and ambient candle light throughout the dining room. There are actually three distinct areas: The obligatory fiery lounge scene as you enter, followed by a long main dining room, which can be somewhat noisy and a little oasis in the far back where a center flower arrangement reaches up to a skylight.

Service is surprisingly warm and efficient. The menu offers a selection of main dishes meant to be shared by two people (many of them can be ordered in1/2 portions, but not the superlative Peking duck with its light-as-a-feather handkerchief-pancakes or a whole steamed fish of the day.

Creative noodles and dumplings are a signature at Philippe. Each night at 9 p.m. in the restaurant’s dining room, Noodle and Pastry Chef conducts a live demonstration for making hand-pulled noodles. Philippe’s menu features no less than eight variations of either steamed or stir-fried dumplings and Cheng’s specialty, hand-made noodles with pork bean sauce (like a Bolognaise). We enjoyed an assortment of steamed dumplings, including Jade dumplings with shrimp and water chestnuts, crabmeat soup dumplings, sieu mai of pork and black mushrooms and vegetable dumplings. All were paragons of freshness and avoided the all too common NY Chinese trait of gumminess. The other standout was Singapore-style noodles and (obviously) Cheng’s specialty: a dish that bills itself as “hand-made noodles with pork-bean sauce.”

Entrees range from nine seasons spicy prawns, drunken sea bass served in white wine, an outstanding Peking duck, crispy beef with sweet and sour carrots that is to die for and a delightful combination of green prawns with cashew nuts, water chestnuts, peppers and black mushrooms. The lunch menu offers both á la carte selections and a three-course prix-fixe menu for $20.06. Philippe also offers a 10-course tasting menu for $50 at dinner that must be ordered by a minimum of six persons.

Philippe Chow was born in China in 1958 and went to Hong Kong at age 16 where he spent five years working in various kitchens receiving hands-on training. He came to the U.S. in 1979 and began working at Mr. Chow (no relation) in 1980. He remained at Mr. Chow for the next 25 years until departing this past September to partner with Philippe’s co-owners Stratis Morfogen and Howard Stein (partners in Au Bar).

Selections from chef Cheng’s dessert menu provided fresh fruit in prime condition. The perfect conclusion!

Philippe offers 10 to 12 wines by the glass each night, as well as a good if pricey wine list (there are some terrific bottles for under $50). The bar produces excellent cocktails (Try the best “Old Fashioned” in town). A welcome relief from the onslaught of Italian restaurants, Philippe offers a fresh and breezy alternative and is a hot ticket. So reserve well in advance; dress up (or down) and turn the other cheek (kiss-kiss).